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A Happy Ending to a Night on the Town | In the news | My Website

A Happy Ending to a Night on the Town

TheLocalDish.com

A Happy Ending to a Night on the Town

By Kabir Stanton




38 Central confounds the notion that “simple” is ordinary. Years of experience have formed the intuition of the chef and owners, and careful planning converges with local ingredients to produce a menu that is simple, and, at first glance, even pedestrian. Fried chicken, barbequed ribs, butterscotch pudding, and banana splits aren’t exactly the makings of gourmet dreams.

But there is nothing ordinary about the warm finish of a hefty butterscotch pudding, each batch made with half a bottle of scotch and served in a house-made waffle cup. Nor is there anything ordinary about the sweet, glass-like crust of the banana in the brûléed banana split. Ordinary banana splits don’t get kitchen-torch treatment like the top of a crème brulée. Nor do they arrive with vanilla bean gelato from Mamma Mia Gelateria in Jacksonville. Things may be simple, but they are not ordinary.

Owners Michael Wolf and David Graham, and chef Juan Murillo, came to the Rogue Valley after years on the Napa Valley restaurant scene, with plans for a restaurant that served great classic food made from fresh, local ingredients in a comfortable atmosphere. The urban loft-like setting with abstract art pieces dotting the brick walls is decidedly welcoming, right down to the kid-friendly tables ready for drawing on.

“We wanted to do something that was approachable to everyone instead of doing something that was too niche marketed or specific to some cuisine,” said co-owner David Graham.

They’ve succeeded.